I have knitter's block. Knitter's block is the inability to see the garment or pattern in the yarns around you. I have heard of the condition but never suffered from it before. I tried to start four projects but nothing seemed to work. I reviewed the knitting books I have in my library--no inspiration from the lace or cable patterns. I held different weight yarns and tried to envision what a finished garment would look like if they became lace or a stockinette sweater or summer shawl. Nothing! No one I know is in need of a knitted or crocheted garment. I can usually think of a project that would appeal to someone on etsy. Not even a fleeting thought. Knitting needles feel heavy in my hands and the ideas I have for spring and summer colors seem tired and over used.
I think it is time for something new. My son-in-law is helping me make videos of knitting techniques for me to share with all of you. The first one will be a segment on styles of casting on. I am also working on demonstrations of starting socks from the toe up and the from the cuff down. If there is a special technique you would like to see demonstrated, let me know. I will post directions and make a video when my son-in-law has time.
In the meantime I will put my needles in their case and organize my yarn. The fiber will speak to me when the time is right. Sharing my experience will have to do in the meantime.
Showing posts with label knitting techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knitting techniques. Show all posts
Monday, March 5, 2012
Monday, November 21, 2011
Don't block your socks
There are some really fancy devices in the stores and on line to block socks. I have seen plastic ones, padded ones and metal ones in the yarn shop. There are also instructions for making sock blockers from old wire hangers. Some of these contraptions cost more than the yarn to make cashmere socks. I avoid them at all costs.
I don't block socks. The feet for which they are made block them to a perfect fit the first time they are put on. Soaking and stretching and ironing them may make them look nice in the box, but it is the wearer who blocks them to his/her foot.
I just sent four pairs of grey flannel exercise socks to a customer in Illinois. She is giving them to friends as Christmas presents. Because they are cotton and acrylic they can be machine washed and dried, but they will keep the shape their owners give them.
Save yourself money and time, let the feet do the shaping. You just do the knitting.
I don't block socks. The feet for which they are made block them to a perfect fit the first time they are put on. Soaking and stretching and ironing them may make them look nice in the box, but it is the wearer who blocks them to his/her foot.
I just sent four pairs of grey flannel exercise socks to a customer in Illinois. She is giving them to friends as Christmas presents. Because they are cotton and acrylic they can be machine washed and dried, but they will keep the shape their owners give them.
Save yourself money and time, let the feet do the shaping. You just do the knitting.
Labels:
knitting techniques,
shaping socks,
sock blockers
Monday, October 31, 2011
Lifelines
Few things can frustrate a knitter more than finding a mistake on row 16 at end of row 23 of a complicated pattern. Whenever I knit a piece of complicated lace I throw myself a lifeline at the end of every pattern repeat, or halfway through a pattern that has more than 20 rows in the repeat.
A lifeline is a piece of thread or contrasting yarn, that is threaded through the stitches of a row. The lifeline is of a contrasting color and I leave long tails to make it easy to spot and remove when the piece is finished. The lifeline has to be on a row without yarn overs. If you are making a flat piece the row will be a purl row. If you are knitting in the round, the lifeline goes through the row immediately following a row with yarn overs. Whenever I knit a piece of complicated lace I throw myself a lifeline at the end of every pattern repeat, or halfway through a pattern that has more than 20 rows in the repeat.
I count the stitches at the end of every third row. If I have more stitches or fewer stitches than I should, or if I see an error in the pattern, I back track to the row with the lifeline. I don't have to worry about losing stitches in the row with the lifeline. They are on a piece of thread. I can easily resume the pattern because the lifeline is always on the same row of the pattern.
Leave the stitches on the needle. Use a tapestry needle and gently slide the lifeline through all the stitches in the row. Make a note of the number row it is in the pattern. Repeat at regular intervals until your piece is finished.
I think you will find, as I do, that the amount of time it takes to do this is well spent. In addition to saving time and work by limiting the number of rows that have to be undone, I like to take the time to review the pattern and assess my work as i thread the lifeline through.
A lifeline is a piece of thread or contrasting yarn, that is threaded through the stitches of a row. The lifeline is of a contrasting color and I leave long tails to make it easy to spot and remove when the piece is finished. The lifeline has to be on a row without yarn overs. If you are making a flat piece the row will be a purl row. If you are knitting in the round, the lifeline goes through the row immediately following a row with yarn overs. Whenever I knit a piece of complicated lace I throw myself a lifeline at the end of every pattern repeat, or halfway through a pattern that has more than 20 rows in the repeat.
I count the stitches at the end of every third row. If I have more stitches or fewer stitches than I should, or if I see an error in the pattern, I back track to the row with the lifeline. I don't have to worry about losing stitches in the row with the lifeline. They are on a piece of thread. I can easily resume the pattern because the lifeline is always on the same row of the pattern.
Leave the stitches on the needle. Use a tapestry needle and gently slide the lifeline through all the stitches in the row. Make a note of the number row it is in the pattern. Repeat at regular intervals until your piece is finished.
I think you will find, as I do, that the amount of time it takes to do this is well spent. In addition to saving time and work by limiting the number of rows that have to be undone, I like to take the time to review the pattern and assess my work as i thread the lifeline through.
Labels:
how to hint,
knit craft,
knitting techniques,
Nona's Nook
Sunday, October 23, 2011
How do I. . .?
How do I make sure the socks and gloves I knit are the same length?
There are several ways to make sure the socks and gloves match. You can use a long circular needle and make both at the same time. This is an advanced technique that takes time to master. Wait until after Christmas to try it or those cozy Christmas slippers may become an Easter bunny surprise.
Make one sock or glove. Hold the second sock against it as a quick measure. Unless you are making chunky yarn slippers there is a real risk one of the pair will be an eighth or even a quarter inch shorter than the other.
The same thing can happen when you measure each half of the pair with a ruler or tape measure. Even if you block them to the same measurement, the truth will out when they are washed.
To make sure socks and gloves are the same length when you are knitting one at a time, clip small lengths of contrasting yarn (I use 4" to 6" pieces) and set them aside. Knit a specific number of rows on the first sock or glove of the pair, 10 or 20 works for me. Slip the last stitch of the completed row you are going to mark to a cable needle and hold it in front. Wrap a small piece of contrasting yarn around the base of the stitch. Make sure the tails of the scrap yarn are to the front of the stitch. Return the wrapped stitch to its original position. Repeat this every 10 or 20 rows and complete the first half of the pair. Do the same with the second sock or glove to make sure they are exactly the same length. When the pair is completed, gently remove the scraps of yarn from the marked rows. You have a perfect pair of gloves or socks for that special person at Christmas.
There are several ways to make sure the socks and gloves match. You can use a long circular needle and make both at the same time. This is an advanced technique that takes time to master. Wait until after Christmas to try it or those cozy Christmas slippers may become an Easter bunny surprise.
Make one sock or glove. Hold the second sock against it as a quick measure. Unless you are making chunky yarn slippers there is a real risk one of the pair will be an eighth or even a quarter inch shorter than the other.
The same thing can happen when you measure each half of the pair with a ruler or tape measure. Even if you block them to the same measurement, the truth will out when they are washed.
To make sure socks and gloves are the same length when you are knitting one at a time, clip small lengths of contrasting yarn (I use 4" to 6" pieces) and set them aside. Knit a specific number of rows on the first sock or glove of the pair, 10 or 20 works for me. Slip the last stitch of the completed row you are going to mark to a cable needle and hold it in front. Wrap a small piece of contrasting yarn around the base of the stitch. Make sure the tails of the scrap yarn are to the front of the stitch. Return the wrapped stitch to its original position. Repeat this every 10 or 20 rows and complete the first half of the pair. Do the same with the second sock or glove to make sure they are exactly the same length. When the pair is completed, gently remove the scraps of yarn from the marked rows. You have a perfect pair of gloves or socks for that special person at Christmas.
Labels:
knitting techniques,
Nona's Nook,
Tailor
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